Eyepiece Projection Method for dslr astrophotography

This video is about eyepiece projection method. It’s a short account of my experience testing various scopes with Gosky’s tele-extender. I hope that some of the information in this video is helpful to those interested in trying it. Clear skies.

This is the adapter I recommend: https://amzn.to/2Ia5l2t

Comments

Milan Karakas says:

At 6:15 I can see that it oscillate in horizontal plane. Since your telescope is moved forward to compensate added weight of the camera, try to add more weight near the primary lens element, move telescope back (to achieve balance), and move one of the counter-weight to compensate added weight near the lens element.

Milan Karakas says:

You have whole telescope or part of it in resonance with motor that pushes it at frequency at about 5 Hz. Try to move one of the counterweight and observe the difference. Try add weight close to the camera mount, then balance telescope again. What I want to say – your telescope probably having high Q (quality) of resonance at the frequency of motor intervals. Since you can’t remove weight from the refracting lens element and the camera, you can add so that it is not symmetric. The key point is mass distribution. While center of the mas can remain the same, moving elements can help re-distributing mass, thus reducing high Q factor of the resonance at certain frequency.

Fred Eric says:

Nice video, very informative as always

ronald ferreira says:

nervous dude good video

Christiaan Corthals says:

can’t you use the video with vibrations (e.g. like Saturn) in a stacker program that’s using individual video frames to stack for a better result?

McAllister Pulswaithe says:

Why the music? It’s distracting, annoying and totally unnecessary.

Aaron Meloccaro says:

Great Video. I had a refractor that really didnt do much better than my DSLR with a strong telephoto lens. I switched to Newtonian scope and I havent put it together yet…still waiting for extra parts to come in (focus extender thing). I was hoping I made the right decision switchiing to Newtonian but watching your vid convinced me I will have a better time.

Nick Crowther says:

Please help! I’m fairly new to astrophotography, and I’m having some trouble with focusing. I started off by using a simple mobile phone mount which held my phone camera upto the eye piece, this worked well but I’ve recently upgraded to a DSLR to get higher quality images.
I’ve been using eyepiece projection with my DLSR camera and it’s not going well. I’m able to get a nice image on my camera display. However, when I take the photo it appears out of focus / blurred and I have no idea why?!
I’m beginning to think it might be down to the fact the camera is shaking the telescope which the shutter snaps to take the photo? But I think it’s more complicated than that. For example, when I take pic of the moon some craters that are central to the pic are in focus, while craters at the edge of the pic are not? Almost like a fish eye lens effect?
Any info you have will be greatly appreciated. I useNikon D5200 cameraSky watcher 130 EQ225mm Super Wide Angle Eyepiece.

southernexposure123 says:

Wow ! This was highly useful to me. I’m wanting to take pictures with an old 120mm x 1000mm Orion scope. I’ve been wondering which mount to get. Your video answered a lot of questions for me. It looks like the CG4 I was thinking of buying might be marginal or maybe even useless for pictures with that scope. I’ll have to get a short tube if I continue pursuing taking pictures.
Thanks.

AntPDC says:

Thank you very much for this Garnett. I realise there are variables, but judging from these examples I’m opting for prime focus wherever possible. Obviously, with a longer focal length OTA, maybe a good quality barlow for more reach, prime focus covers a lot of situations.

orlando007 says:

I got a question what method is better the prime one or the eyepiece projection?

tanker1960 says:

Helped avoided a pitfall. Thanks for video.

JohnCranberry23 says:

When I add a eye piece in the tube I can’t pull focus. I need like 20cm extension tube? Is there any way around it? Why do they make it so difficult to use your dslr with eyepieces!

craig3212 says:

So very helpful. I just got my projection adapter in the mail and two Plossl eyepieces. I was going crazy trying to work out how it all went together. Thanks for your help! Craig – Geelong, Ausrtralia

Michael says:

I want to use eyepiece projection to increase backfocus for a canon 750D and a Sky watcher heritage 130p reflector. Will this adapter + the t ring for the DSLR camera work to get it in focus ?

Also, would this adapter work ? https://www.amazon.com/Orion-5123-1-25-Inch-Telescope-Extension/dp/B0000XMUH8
It has much less import fees to germany, but it doesn’t have a third screw to tighten the eyepiece, nor can i see any threads for the t ring.

Jeff Lucas Astrophotographer says:

I tried that route with Celestron what you call EP Adapter that cost me a Celestron price. What it did was mar up my EP and it was NOT secure with my 8SE mount setup. I was afraid of my DSLR falling off. Not only that – it was very long and heavy. Great presentation for reminding me of this sloppy pitfall I experienced. EPA is on shelf collecting dust.

brian johnson says:

Have you ever tried using this for any deep Sky objects even bright ones like orion? And why not just use a Barlow lens. Thx

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